DEATHS, stabbings, serious burns, drugs, lacerated feet and alcohol poisoning.
The monthly full moon party on Koh PhaNgan in Thailand certainly has a bad reputation. It’s portrayed as a debauched release, an escape from the rules of society where the YOLO generation can risk life and limb in order to feel “free”.
But behind the headlines and statistics, what is really going on at full moon party? What’s it like to really be there? Are the dangers as real and present as is perceived around the world? I decided to do my travel blogger duty and find out.
Up to 30,000 revellers, fuelled by cheap booze, magic mushroom shakes and other substances, party without limits. Some of them engage in activities deemed illegal, even in Thailand. The health and safety of home is a distant memory.
There’s no doubt that a lot of gasp-worthy stuff was going on around me as I drank cheap rum from a plastic bottle, sitting in the sand at 3am with my travel companion Tommo. I partied hard but left unscathed. How? Well, most people do.
We visited the convenience store behind to buy sealed drinks and mixed them in a Sprite bottle. Picture: Tommo Williams
Aside from the more shocking stories, such as that of Stephen Ashton, who was killed by a stray bullet in 2013, most of the injury is self inflicted due to alcohol, drugs or lack of due care.
Though the risk is higher than going out on a Saturday night in Australia, the vast majority of people who take precautions go home safe. Precautions like drinking from a bottle, rather than an open bucket which could be easily spiked.
Staying with friends at all times and not heading off with strangers. Not falling asleep on the beach.
Alcohol sold along the beachfront. Picture: Tommo Williams
Before the party started, we had a chat with locals and expats in the area — veteran partygoers who had seen it all. They had a lot of tips for us to make sure we could enjoy the festival and party late, without regret.
Suffice to say, most people don’t get to hear this expert advice. They are the ones squealing with pain at 4am because they went barefoot to a beach littered with broken glass bottles, hidden just below the sand.
British expat and blogger Dave Brett told us “local nurses make their living sewing up foreigners feet for 100 baht ($4) a stitch”. If you need a lot of stitches after half a bottle of Chang, a local Thai beer, has sliced half way along your foot, the cost is going to add up.
Simply wearing shoes or thongs is enough to save your feet.
Bottles everywhere. Picture: Eddy Milfort
An activity that had lines of willing men, ready to risk a night at the hospital, was the “Rope of fire”.
A 10 metre rope, lit on fire, swings like a skipping rope all night. Drunk 20-somethings feel the need to prove themselves and get a “Full Moon tattoo” as they mistime their jumps and their limbs become tangled in fire.
Party goers take it in turns to jump the rope of fire. Many get tangled and burnt. Picture: Tommo Williams
It’s not a stunt rope. It’s real fire. It’s entertaining for the crowd, with an almost gladiatorial thirst for seeing pain, to watch people limping away. But, this is one event I’m glad to just be a bystander for. Plus, there are plenty of pros down the beach setting the skies alight with more flare and less clumsy drunkedness.
Crowds gather to watch the professional fire show — rather than just drunks getting burnt. Picture: Tommo Williams
It’s a show, all right. Picture: Tommo Williams
My words may sound like criticism. In actual fact I think the opposite. People visit to feel free. They make the choice to leave the structured and relatively safe environment of open container laws, bouncers and enforced drink-driving regulations in order to party without rules, just for one night.
Some people pay the price with injury, or in very rare cases, death. Even innocent bystanders, perhaps clipped by a motorcycle ridden by a topless yobo hyped on vodka and extra strong Thai Redbull. But, they all chose to be here, to join this circus. They opted in to the freedom but also the risk.
It’s an escape from the everyday and is not without risk. Picture: Thomas Sauzedde
I may not be jumping the rope of fire, but I’m still indirectly perpetuating this unique event, simply by turning up. And I’m happy to do so. Escaping Big Brother does feel liberating and the danger is mostly down to poor choices, rather than genuine risk. Plus, supporting the festival is not just about endorsing bad tourist behaviour.
The Full Moon Party contradicts many Thai cultural standards. Thai people are relatively conservative and the way we behave as foreigners gets a lot of criticism. Is one night a month of insanity worth it in order to create an economy and provide jobs?
Party on. Picture: Thomas Sauzedde
Local business owner Charlie Solares told us: “The roads on the island are some of the best in the region and the local government is working on water systems that will sustain the growing population.
“Plus, we have also been able to create organisations and teams to care for the beaches, like Green Cross Beach Clean, that helps the island maintain its beauty even with so many tourists converging for one big night per month.”
The party has brought a lot of growth to the area. Hotels and restaurants, run by locals, who make most of their monthly income in the space of a few days.
Beware of how much you’re drinking. Picture: Tak. Wing
I spent some time on Koh PhaNgan after the festival. It’s a peaceful tropical island paradise for 28 days or so a month. Streets and restaurants feel empty as the majority of the out of season tourist population cling around the beach bars, trying to find a reminder of the epic party that happened days before ...
Fortunately, there are some benefits to sticking around a little longer. Swimming in calm tropical waters for instance.
But, on the night of the full moon, you shouldn’t swim. Rows of men urinate straight into the light surf around their feet. The speedboats charge in and out of the bay, rarely with any lights. Unexpected rip tides can pull you out to sea.
I saw a couple flirting and kissing in the surf, Meters away from the very public, open air “mens room”. If kissing in waves with unexpected warm patches is really your idea of romance and freedom, who am I to judge?
But, once again, people make these strange choices willingly.
Revellers get it on all over the beach. Picture: Eric Molina
For all the unusual behaviour that a cocktail of alcohol, red bull and freedom brings, most of the 30,000 party goers enjoy a trouble-free night they will never forget. Or perhaps, a wild night they will barely remember.
Either way, everyone has memories that stick.
If you stay out of trouble, stay away from drugs, motorbikes, fire and water, you can experience something unique that may be closed down by the fun police in the not-too-distant future.
There is a reason people flood to the full moon party, regardless of the dangers. Freedom is addictive.
Fire twirling experts all along the beach. Picture: Tommo Williams
Here are some tips from SmarTraveller on staying safe at a Full Moon Party:
1. PRE-PARTY PLANNING
Decide where and when you are going and what your transport options are, especially if you don’t know the city backwards yet. If you are catching public transport home, ask what time the last service runs. Never use taxis, buses, trains or boats that are overcrowded or look unsafe and try to avoid having to travel in ferries and speedboats after dark.
2. KNOW YOUR ALCOHOL LIMITS
When you are drunk your judgment is affected, and you are more likely to take risks and make poor decisions. At best, your hangover will mean you waste a valuable day of your holiday inside with the lights out. At worst, you could be injured, robbed, sexually assaulted or arrested. Insurance policies may not provide cover for injuries or losses sustained under the influence. Like at home, never drive or swim if you have been drinking.
3. BEWARE OF DRINK SPIKING
Never accept drinks from strangers or leave your drink unattended. If you’re unsure if a drink is safe, leave it — it’s not worth the risk. If you feel dizzy or sick, tell your friends and ask someone you trust and know well to take you to a safe place. Remember to keep an eye on your friends at all times. If a friend collapses, seek medical care immediately and don’t leave them alone.
Alcoholic drinks can be mixed with harmful substances, particularly methanol, which can cause serious illness, blindness, brain injury or death.
Koh Phangan. Picture: Fabio Achilli
4. DON’T USE DRUGS
Importing, buying, carrying or taking drugs incurs serious penalties in most countries, including the death penalty, which apply equally to foreigners. Each year many Aussie travellers are arrested overseas on drug charges, and our government is limited in what we can do to help.
Even if you don’t get caught, taking drugs will reduce your ability to make considered decisions and will make you more likely to become a victim of violence, robbery or sexual assault.
5. TAKE CARE OF YOUR MATES
Australians frequently get into difficulty at Full Moon and other parties and festivals overseas after becoming separated from their friends. Don’t leave your mates alone — keep in regular contact and be aware of where people in your group are. Make sure you have your friends’ mobile numbers and organise a time and place to meet in case you get separated.
6. VENUE SAFETY
Be aware that party venues overseas might not have the same safety standards you are accustomed to. If you are concerned that a venue is becoming too crowded, it would be wise to move on. Nightclub fires, balcony collapses and crowd crushes can occur. Taking simple steps such as checking the nearest exit or thinking of an alternate way out can be a smart move.
7. LOOK AFTER YOUR GEAR
Avoid carrying your passport, large amounts of cash, multiple credit cards or other valuables to parties and clubs. Ensure these valuables are safely secured at your hotel before going out for the night. There’s nothing worse than filling in police reports and organising a new passport while your mates are still out having a ball.
Mobile phones are incredibly useful, but they’re no good if they’re lost, stolen, or fall in the pool. It makes sense to write down some key numbers for friends and family and keep them with your passport.
8. DON’T GET RIPPED OFF
Before entering or ordering in a bar, restaurant or other establishment, check the price list. If you don’t, you may find yourself with an unexpectedly large bill which you might be forced to pay under duress before you can leave.
9. NO FIGHTING
The only Aussies fighting overseas should be boxers wearing the green and gold. Overseas, the laws and penalties for physical altercations, even between friends, can be much harsher than in Australia.
10. STAY IN TOUCH
Call, text or email family and friends at home regularly and let them know where you are.
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